The Legend Of The Flying Tiger

It's an unmissable icon in Bhutan - clinging like a swallow's nest to the edge of a cliff high above the Paro Valley, it makes many foreign visitors wonder how such a monastery could ever be built. It is only accessible by narrow mountain paths, and surrounded by dense forested mountains and dramatic rocky drops, yet it has become one of the most popular places in Bhutan for pilgrims and awe-struck tourists alike. 

To the local Bhutanese, there's no doubt as to why or how this difficult to reach temple earned it's name Taktshang - "Tiger's Nest". The legend goes that the great Indian master Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche in Tibetan, was called to Bhutan from Tibet to subdue demons who were causing difficulties for the people of Paro Valley. He flew from Tibet to Bhutan on the back of a tigress, landing at a cave high up in the cliffs above Paro. This cave is where he then spent the next three years, three months, three weeks and three days meditating and performing rituals to subdue the demons of the land, and the place became known as "Tiger's Nest". Some believe that the tiger who carried the Guru was actually his disciple and consort, Yeshe Tsogyel, who transformed herself so that she could assist him in travelling to the Land of the Thunder Dragon. 

Guru Rinpoche is regarded in Tibetan Buddhism - the religion which is dominant in Bhutan as well as in Tibet - as the second Buddha. His magical feats are famous and his image is seen in every monastery and temple across the Tibetan Buddhist world. He was invited to Tibet in the 8th century in order to tame the demons of the land and convert them to Buddhism, which he did through many battles and contests. He then travelled to Bhutan for a similar purpose - to calm the demons and harmful spirits so that Buddhism could flourish and the people could thrive.  

The fantastical stories of the Tiger's Nest don't end there though - Guru Rinpoche apparently returned to the site hundreds of years later, reincarnated as Tenzin Rabgye, the man who built the structure that turned the meditation cave into a temple.  It is said that many miraculous things happened during the construction and consecration of the temple, which proved its highly sacred status. According to one legend, the buildings were even anchored to the cliff using the hairs of dakini - otherworldly celestial beings from Tibetan Buddhist mythology.  

Over the centuries many famous Tibetan, Indian, and Bhutanese yogis came to the temple to meditate, drawn by its powerful energy. Today, still, the monastery is in use as a hermitage by monks from monasteries near and far, seeking to attain the level of enlightenment that the Buddha and Guru Rinpoche achieved.  

Visitors are welcomed to visit the Tiger's Nest, this place of myth and legend, to see for themselves the incredible temple and perhaps believe - even if just for a moment - that the stories of flying tigers and magical gurus may be real. 

Why Nepal Should Be On Every Travel Bucket List

Adventurous and curious travellers have been heading to Nepal for decades in search of new experiences, but what is it that draws them there? 

For a small country, Nepal has a little of everything, geographically - towering peaks, dense jungles, lowland plains, turbulent rivers, glaciers and hot springs. The old hippy haunts from the 70's heyday can still be found in some pockets of Kathmandu and Pokhara, but they've been overshadowed by the recent trend of adventure tourism that's developed over the past decade in the Himalayan country. 

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Here are ten reasons why Nepal should be on every travel bucket list: 

  1. It's home to Mount Everest and some of the highest mountains in the world: Okay, let's get the obvious one out of the way first. Mount Everest, standing tall at 8848m above sea level, straddles the border of Nepal and Tibet, allowing trekking access from both sides. However, given the difficulty of accessing Tibet and the remote EBC north, this incredible mountain is easiest to be viewed from the Nepal side. Standing at the foot of the mountains, feel dwarfed by the intimidating Himalayan range 
  2. Adventure sports are booming: There's not many places in the world where you can paraglide one day, bungy jump the next, and go white water rafting the next day, all while returning to a comfortable lodging overnight. Nepal is the home of adventure tourism in Asia, with options to suit every level of confidence. 
  3. See endangered animals in the wild: In Nepal's Chitwan and Bardia National Parks, take a walking safari or jeep tour to see endangered tigers, rhinos, gharial crocodiles, wild elephants, and more. If you're extremely lucky, you could even be one of the few people who sees the endangered leopard in the wild. 
  4. It's culturally diverse: You may think of women dressed in sari and visiting Hindu temples when you think of Nepal, but the country is actually multi-cultural with different dress, religious traditions, languages, and food in each community. From the Sherpa people who live near Tibet, to the Newar people of the Kathmandu valley, to the tribes of the Terai in southern Nepal, the culture and traditions are so different you'd be surprised to think they're all Nepali. 
  5. You can experience old-world charm in the modern melee: Kathmandu is a city of chaos and contradictions, where the modern world has grown around ancient alleys and shrines, buses hurtle past cows in the main streets, and you can drink your chai from a five-star restaurant or a cart on the side of the road. Hidden in pockets of the city you'll find charming restaurants, boutique hotels, or colourful shrines that can make you feel like you've stepped back in time, far away from the modern world outside on the street. It's discovering your own hidden gems that make the journey so rewarding.  
  6. Trekking has never been more comfortable: On the Annapurna circuit, renowned for its breathtaking views, you can enjoy the full experience of trekking in the high mountains without having to worry about where you'll sleep for the night. The Annapurna Circuit is a tea-house trek, meaning each night is spent in the comfort of an established tea-house, complete with nutritious meals and hot tea to start your day. 
  7. It's a spiritual haven: From Hindu temples to Buddhist monasteries, meditation retreats to yoga camps, Nepal has long been a home for foreign tourists seeking spiritual enlightenment. The clear air of the mountains, the hum of the jungle, and the slow pace of life all lend themselves perfectly to a spiritual retreat. 
  8. It's perfect for families: Nepal is a safe country to travel to with children, and you'll have no problems finding comfortable hotels, agreeable foods, or fun experiences to keep them entertained. While many people think of Nepal as a backpacker's destination, it's also very family friendly. 
  9. The food is unforgettable: You know you've been to Nepal when you crave a big plate of daal bhat for breakfast, with a chai on the side. The hearty dish of rice, lentils, and curry is a favourite among tourists, trumped only by momos - the Nepali dumpling - which come with various fillings from meat to veg to chocolate! 
  10. You'll see some of the best sunsets and sunrises of your life: Whether you're in the valley, the city, or the mountains, Nepal has some of the best sunsets and sunrises to offer. Colourful, highlighting the mountain peaks or touching the tips of the trees, they're worth waking up early for. 
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For a country so small, landlocked in the middle of a continent, Nepal is packed full of stunning scenery, adventurous activities, cultural charm, and unforgettable experiences to make it worthy of a top spot on any traveler's bucket list. 

Itching to pack your bags already? Check out our tour and trekking options in Nepal, or contact us for more information. 

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Another Wonderful Year Draws To A Close

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As 2017 draws to a close in just a couple of weeks, we're taking a moment to celebrate what we've achieved this year and looking forward to what's already on the agenda for 2018 and beyond. 

Beyond The Clouds

This year our Beyond The Clouds director, Fionna Heiton, took a month out of the office to explore the Kham and Amdo regions of eastern Tibet with her twin children. The journey was part of Beyond The Cloud's expansion into running tours in Tibet now, alongside our ever-popular options in Nepal and Bhutan. You can check out her previous blog posts about her journey for some travel inspiration here

We also added a new staff member to our team in the office in Nelson: Becky Carruthers, who's spent the last four years living on and off in Tibet and the Himalayas, and has come home to put her knowledge and skills to work at Beyond The Clouds. Becky volunteered with First Steps Himalaya in Nepal in 2011, and is excited to be a part of the office team now. 

This year we've run 15 tours across the Himalayas, 3 of which have been our famous yoga journeys. Bhutan was our top country for 2017, with Nepal coming in second, and newcomer Tibet at the end. Let's see which country will be the top of 2018! 

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First Steps Himalaya

Our charity, First Steps Himalaya, has also been achieving great things in 2017: we had a busy season of volunteers at our project site in Nepal helping to build earth-bag classrooms in the local village, aiding the transition from temporary learning centres that they have been in since the earthquake of 2015. 

Volunteers came from all over the world to help build two earth-bag classrooms at Dyali school, which are now nearly complete. We would like to give a huge thank you to Court Construction, who raised over NZ$70,000 to build these classrooms and also returned to Nepal to help with the build. 

As well as builders, we also had several international teaching volunteers dedicate their time to developing our teachers in Nepal this season by providing some amazing training on classroom management, use of resources, encouraging oral language and introducing new games and songs. 

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We had another important campaign running in 2017: this year we fundraised for a very special project, to get Sita, her child and her husband who was paralysed in the 2015 Nepal earthquake out of the tin shelter they were living in, and into a wheelchair friendly home. We are very excited to announce that the $25,000 target was exceeded, and Sita and her family's new home will soon be completed. Thank you to Katey Lane for initiating The Sita Project and working hard to fundraise, and thank you to everyone who donated.

Due to the success of this project, and the great need of other disabled people living in sub-standard conditions due to the 2015 Nepal earthquake, we will be keeping this project running to help others in similar situations.  We will keep you posted on the next recipients of this fund.  If you would like to donate, please contact us here

What's next?

In 2018, we've already got over 10 tours running to Bhutan, Nepal, and Tibet again. These tours include treks, yoga journeys, and festival experiences in some of the most remote parts of the world. The Himalayas are an incredible destination, and we're sure that our guests will have an experience they'll never forget. 

We're already planning yoga journeys to take off in 2019, too! You can check out our web pages for our Nepal and Bhutan yoga journeys on our website. 

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In 2018, Fionna will be returning to Nepal and Bhutan to continue overseeing the work of First Steps Himalaya and Beyond The Clouds in both countries, ensuring that - with your help - we can most effectively benefit the communities we work with. 

We're excited for 2018, and excited to take you with us. 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

From the team at Beyond The Clouds & First Steps Himalaya, Nepal and New Zealand.  

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A Mountain Of Living Mythology

Kailash

The Precious Snow Mountain Of Tibet

In the far western reaches of the Tibetan plateau stands an extraordinary mountain: shaped like a pyramid with four sides that face the four cardinal directions, from which emerge four rivers that flow in each direction, it’s no wonder that the mountain has become the inspiring setting for mythology and legends for over a thousand years.

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According to Hindu mythology, the god Shiva resides at the peak of Mount Kailasa with his wife, Parvati. The mountain represents a pillar of the earth at the centre of a lotus, around which other mountain ranges form the petals.

In Jain legends, Mount Kailash represents Mount Meru, the mythical mountain at the centre of the universe around which all of the planets and the sun revolve.

Both Buddhist and Bon (the ancient shamanistic religion of Tibet before the introduction of Buddhism) mythology associates Mount Kailash with their own deities, but it was also the stage for a great legendary battle between the religions: a Buddhist saint and a Bon magician competed for days for the privilege of having their religion be the primary religion of Tibet.

Finally, their last challenge was to reach the summit of the mountain as quickly as possible. The Bon magician sat on a magic drum and began flying toward the summit, meanwhile the Buddhist saint remained relaxed on the ground, worrying his followers. At last, as the Bon magician was about to reach the summit of Mount Kailash and win for his religion, the sun came up and the Buddhist saint rode on a ray of sunlight to reach the peak first and win the battle for Tibet. Since this time, followers of the Bon religion have walked anti-clockwise when visiting the sacred mountain, against the common clockwise route that is used by Buddhists, Hindus and Jains.  

In modern times, pilgrims from Tibet and India are joined by curious or pious tourists from around the world in paying a visit to the sacred mountain.

Mount Kailash is closer to the border with India than to the Tibetan capital city of Lhasa, but that’s not to say it’s close to anywhere, in fact. To reach the legendary mountain requires days of long drives across barren desert-like terrain and high passes, whichever direction you are coming from. But they say that the harder the journey, the greater the reward, right?

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The small town at the southern foot of Mount Kailash, Darchen, is the base from which pilgrims and trekkers begin their circumambulation of the mountain. Climbing the mountain is forbidden due to its holy status, but the one- to three-day trek around it allows you to appreciate the unique geography of it and connect with the pilgrims along the way.

Tibetan Buddhists will often set off from Darchen in the early hours of the morning, around 2 or 3am, and aim to walk the entire 52km kora (Tibetan: circumambulation path) in a single day, returning to Darchen exhausted just before midnight. The rough terrain, patches of snow even in summer, and high altitude – the highest point is the Drolma La pass at 5,600 metres above sea level – mean this is no easy feat.

Some particularly devout Tibetan pilgrims will even prostrate for the entire route. Prostration is a form of offering of the body, in which the devotee lowers their body to the ground and lies out flat on their front, marks the point where their fingers reach to with a small object, then stands and walks to their small object to repeat the process all over again – essentially, they travel the entire trail one body length at a time.

Between these two extremes is the more common method for experiencing the sacred mountain’s kora: a three day trek, staying in monastery guesthouses along the way and picnicking with nomads. It’s a once in a lifetime journey that allows you to truly experience the Himalayan spirituality and way of life, unlike anywhere else.

It may be the centre of the universe, home to Shiva and Parvati, or site of a legendary battle to rule Tibet’s religious hearts, but the Precious Snow Mountain is also undeniably a place you have to see once, and perhaps you too will start to believe it.

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Interested in visiting Mount Kailash? See our itinerary for a tour here, or contact us to start discussing a tailor-made trip to suit you.  

Dancing Deities Of The Dragon Kingdom

Paro Tsechu Festival

The Biggest Event In Bhutan

Bhutan is a country steeped in traditions and ancient practices, which are all put on show for the annual Paro Tsechu, the biggest festival in the Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon.

Hundreds of people gather in the cool mountain air at Paro Dzong, the ancient fortress-cum-monastery that is the centre of religious life in the small town. The historic building, officially called Rinchen Pung Dzong and built in 1644, is reputedly one of the country’s best examples of Bhutanese architecture, featuring robust walls and intricate designs.

Men, women and children come from all over the countryside dressed in their finest clothes for this event – men in their gho and women in their kira. Many Bhutanese people wear traditional clothing every day for work and social activities, but the festival is a great chance to show off new or special items.

The trumpets begin to drone and cymbals clash as the performances begin – monks dressed in elaborate brocade costumes take centre stage and begin their stylized dances. They pace, each step deliberate and carefully placed, raise their arms and flick their wrists, and leap into the air like athletes. Their dances are symbolic retellings of Tibetan Buddhist mythology or particular teachings, but to the uninitiated they make a colourful and mysterious spectacle.

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Throughout the day several different dances are performed, each one with unique costumes and masks to indicate which demons or spirits the monks are portraying. The monks spend months preparing themselves for the performance, and don’t disappoint their audience who watch enraptured, certain that just by being in the crowd they are gaining spiritual merit.

A highlight of the festival for the pilgrims and spectators is the arrival of Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), embodied by a costumed monk. Guru Rinpoche was a saint, or a second Buddha according to some believers, who is credited with firmly securing Buddhism’s place on the roof of the world in Tibet. The unique Tibetan form of Buddhism was also spread to Bhutan by Guru Rinpoche when he flew to the country on the back of a tiger and landed at the now famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery just outside Paro.

Finally, at dawn on the final day of the festival an enormous thangka (woven image depicting religious figures) is unveiled, completely covering the side of a building. The pious line up to make offerings or receive a blessing from the thangka, many believing that even just to see it ensures liberation from suffering. After a few short hours the thangka is once again carefully covered and stored inside the monastery building for another year until the next Paro Tsechu.

Paro town is like the cover of a chocolate box – its streets are full of colourfully painted wooden shop fronts, reminiscent of an Austrian or Swiss mountain village. Never colonised, Bhutan remained totally isolated until the mid-1970’s, when its border slowly creaked open and tourists began trickling in. Strict regulations for tourism has ensured that the country retains its charm and quaint atmosphere even through the introduction of sealed roads, cars, telephones, and electricity in the 1960’s.

The present-day Government encourages tourism, but requires all visitors to join a tour company. It levies a tourist tax of US$65 (NZ$90) a day to help provide free education and healthcare for the entire population. Tourist numbers remain modest, with less than 23,000 visiting in the first half of 2016, which pales in comparison to Thailand’s whopping 16.5 million tourists for the same period.

Even at Paro Tsechu, an event that draws crowds from far and near for this once a year event, tourists are in the minority and can experience being totally immersed in the Bhutanese culture. Get a front row seat to watch the colourful spectacle, surrounded by smiling local families, and make memories to last a lifetime with a Beyond The Clouds Dragon Kingdom tour in March/ April 2018.

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