Yoga Journeys reach new heights

There has been a huge growth in the range of yoga retreats and holidays available to keen yoga students. There is now such a market for yoga trips that you could take your pick of destinations: Bali, Spain, Guatemala, Tuscany and now of course Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal with Beyond The Clouds.

Beyond The Clouds ran its first Yoga journey in 2012 with the lovely Maureen McKain from Nelson. We took Maureen and her yoga students to our project village where they spent a week helping at the project before exploring Pokhara and Chitwan National Park. Soon the number of groups increased and in more recent years, we have been offering Yoga Journeys in Bhutan. 

We have two yoga journeys scheduled in September/ October this year and our March 2018 Yoga Journey is already fully booked. So what is the attraction of a yoga holiday? It is a perfect way to combine travel with like minded people whilst furthering your yoga practice, relaxing and unwinding from the stresses of everyday life. Men are now joining their wives on these trips or a group of ladies head off together on an unforgettable yoga holiday.

Now Beyond The Clouds is starting Tibet Yoga Journeys staying in a stunning chain of Tibet owned and managed boutique lodges. Founding Director, Fionna Heiton says " Yoga journeys are our best selling trips. Someone books and suddenly their friends want to join them. They feel safe in our hands and can relax knowing that we will be with them every step of the way."

Beyond The Clouds is always on the look out for qualified yoga teachers interested in leading Yoga Journeys with them! 

The road to Shangri-La

{Part 7 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

We have almost reached the end of our Tibetan Journey and finally, after driving right across the Tibetan plateau, over high passes inhabited only by passing nomads and yaks, we have arrived at our final destination, Shangri-La! Nervous that it wouldn’t live up to its reputation, we stop first at Napa Lake. No need to worry, there are yaks and horses grazing by the grassy lakeside surrounded by mountains shimmering in the midday sun. It reminds me of Phewa Lake in Pokhara, Nepal in the 1980s before the hotels sprung up along the lakeside.

We stroll through the old town, which despite much of it being destroyed by a devastating fire in 2014, it has been rebuilt and is perfectly charming! We explore handicraft shops and have a wonderful Indian style meal at The Three Brothers Cafe. After dinner, we join around hundred local Tibetans at the nightly community dance. Tibetan circle dancing is not as easy as it looks. I felt like a contestant on the amazing race, trying to learn the steps before getting my next clue! It didn’t really seem to matter and they seemed delighted that we had joined in! Each dance was different, always in a circle and all quite exhausting in the thin 3,300 metre air.

Our gorgeous Tibetan owned boutique hotel is set in a small village overlooking the Songzanlin Monastery, Yunnan’s largest monastery. Modelled on the Potala Palace, construction began in 1679. Filled with treasures, it once housed 3,000 monks.

The head lama has just died and thousands of locals come to pay their respects, wearing their colourful regional dress. We watch monks praying and debating and chat to an elderly monk about his life. Back at the hotel, we learn that by staying there we are not only helping to employ local Tibetans but that the hotel also supports anyone from the village wishing to go to a higher education institute. The hotel group is opening in Lhasa soon and we meet young Tibetans aspiring to be chefs and restaurant managers. This is a wonderful way of supporting over 300 Tibetans. I join morning meditation class looking out on the monastery before feasting on a wonderful buffet breakfast. We save some bread and cheese for a picnic lunch overlooking the monastery.

The next morning, we join pilgrims pushing the worlds largest prayer wheel which was so heavy it took at least 10 people tugging on ropes to make it move. Our journey in Kham has been a wonderful and highly authentic cultural experience.

We wish we could stay on or continue across the Tibetan plateau but sadly it is time to return to New Zealand, cherishing memories of this very special place. We visit one last monastery, turning prayer wheels for one last Om Mani Hum.

View all our Tibet journeys here

Lost Horizons

{Part 6 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

James Hilton wrote Lost Horizons in 1933. He in fact travelled extensively in Kham before writing Lost Horizons which would go onto become one of the most famous books on Tibet. Although very dated, it tells of a plane that crashes on the Tibetan Plateau. The passengers meet a monk who takes them to a beautiful place, Shangri La.  Since then, people have searched for Shangri La. Some say it exists only in your mind. For me, I think it can be anywhere that you find special. The day I travelled from Yading down from the plateau, I think I found my Shangri La. The road from Xiangcheng climbed steeply affording incredible views as we reached high passes. Mile after mile, we travelled through forests and empty valleys. Any plane crashing here would indeed be lost.  Dropping down into yet another valley, we were amazed to find only a village or two. We were miles from anywhere and glad that our driver knew the way.

Eventually a larger village had a small Tibetan restaurant. We devoured the fried rice before continuing towards the Yunnan border. We have booked into a hotel just outside Benzilan for the night. Benzilan was one of the key places on the old tea and horse trading route connecting Tibet and India. With 15 kilometres to go, we look forward to a hot shower and dinner. However road works on the Yangtse River Gorge, meant a 2 hour delay. We reach our accommodation for the night in time for a lovely dinner.

Looking out on a small temple the exquisite boutique hotel was authentically Tibetan in style, service and management. Sun poured through colourful stained glass and fruit trees flourished in the garden. The days journey melted away.

Want to find Shangri-La?  Find out more about our Road to Shangri-La Joruney here

Heavy snow on the plateau

{Part 5 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

Yading National Park is renowned for its outstanding natural beauty, turquoise lakes and snow capped mountains. The pictures I had seen were stunning and my excitement grew as we drew closer. We check into a stunning brand new hotel to be greeted by Khampas who turned out to be nomads tempted by the easy job of greeting and singing to guests! The guys have enough English to explain that they come from the plateau near Lijang and will get 4 days off a month to visit their families. They seem delighted with their new roles which seems a lot easier than tending yaks.

The next morning, the weather does not look good. Rain turns to snow. Determined to visit the national Park we head to the ticket office to catch the shuttle bus to the national park. We have forgotten our passports and officials refuse to let us go until we quote our passport numbers. Luckily the hotel has our passport information and we head up the mountain accompanied by excited Chinese tourists who have never seen snow before.

The snow gets deeper and deeper as we reach the entrance to the park. It is freezing and are glad of our thermals, down jackets, hats and gloves. Visibility is poor, yet there is a great beauty in the pristine snow scenes.

We discover a brand new monastery being built and head in out of the cold. Artists from a nearby town have been commissioned to paint Buddhist murals.

We warm ourselves by their electric heating ring and chat about their work. Outside the snow piles down and locals invite us to join them around a roaring open fire. The atmosphere is wonderful and we linger with these generous folk. However away from the fire, it is bitterly cold and we return to the hotel to warm up. We may not have seen the stunning views of Yading National Park but we did have a unique Tibetan experience that we wouldn’t have swapped for anything!

Want to experience Tibet for yourself?  Find out more about our Road to Shangri-La Joruney here

Mountains, Myth & Magic

{Part 4 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

The drive from Danba to Tagong is spectacular. Rushing rivers and forests give way to rocky outcrops and eventually climbing to the plateau home to Tibetan nomads and their herds of yaks. Every corner offers breath-taking views of snow- capped mountains, as we climbed back to the grasslands at an altitude of 3700 metres.

Tagong Monastery is one of the most important in Eastern Tibet and pilgrims flock here, particularly those unable to afford the trip to Lhasa. The monastery was founded when the Tang Princess, Wencheng who was to be married to the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo was passing through Tagong en route to Lhasa in the 7th century. A statue of Jowo Sakya–Muni Buddha fell at the exact spot where the monastery stands today. A replica of that statue remains today (the original is in Lhasa) attracting pilgrims. Inside the monastery, an unusual key and lock are believed to heal ailments. My guide taps it on my sore shoulder and I have to say, it did seem to make a difference!

Leaving Tagong we pass beautiful rock paintings depicting Buddha adorned with prayer flags. Our stop for the night is in traditional Tibetan castle style boutique hotel! The deluxe Tibetan style rooms offer comfortable beds, quality linen and even a steam machine to help increase the oxygen in the room. Dinner is Tibetan style thukpa, a kind of soup with noodles. Our host Norbu plays the guitar and sings Tibetan folk songs beautifully as we sit around the fire until the embers die down. We fall asleep inside our cosy room trying not to forget this amazing experience.

Want to experience Tibet for yourself?  Find out more about our Mountains, Myth & Magic Journey here.  

Discovering Danba

{Part 3 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

Nestled above a deep valley, the glorious remote villages of Danba settle above a large array of dramatic mountain slopes. Attracting many artists and photographers, Danba is also known as the ‘Kingdom of Watchtowers’ and ‘Valley of Beauty’. It is one of those unique destinations offering tranquility, picturesque scenes and friendly welcoming people.

We stayed at Pema’s homestay, munching on fresh steamed bread with eggs for breakfast. Her welcoming hospitality made our stay much more special.

Above the house we followed tree lined paths, offering shade from the sun. As we climbed above the village under endless blue skies, the views were simply stunning of the ancient watch towers and traditional houses dotted throughout the landscape.

It would be nice to think that Danba can retain its charm well into the future, as more people discover this village paradise.

For more information on our Tibet trips, click here.

Kangding...gateway to Eastern Tibet

{Part 2 - Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins}

Set in a deep valley on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, the sprawling town of Kangding initially appears to be just another ugly Chinese development of high rise concrete blocks. However, a few days in Kangding not only helps to acclimatize before climbing to the Tibetan plateau but has much more to offer. Staying at Zhilam hostel, owned by an American family, rooms are tastefully decorated in Tibetan style. We enjoy excellent meals and look out on Paoma Mountain lit up at night.

Cable cars take us up Paoma Mountain the next morning. We are literally pushed by Chinese attendants into the rather dilapidated compartment and are soon dangling over the forest adorned with prayer flags. At the top, an elderly Tibetan couple invite us in from the cold, to sit and watch as they make traditional Tibetan tents. We climb further to visit the yellow painted temple offering a peaceful place to meditate.

The highlight of our visit to Kangding was visiting Nanwu Monastery which has a fascinating complex of prayer halls. Belonging to the Gelugpa (yellow hat) sect of Buddhism, the monastery is one of the most active in the area with about 80 monks We witness monks debating and meet elderly Tibetan residents turning prayer wheels chanting Om Mani Padme Hum.

Kangding has a surprisingly good range of places to eat. At one of the towns best Tibetan restaurants we tuck into vegetable momos and thukpa. To our surprise we also discover the Himalayan coffee shop serving huge mugs of freshly brewed coffee and slices of homemade carrot cake! The night before we leave, we abandon our plan to join the community dance as heavy snow is falling. We wake to a picture postcard view of deep white snow all over the town. Our adventure on the Tibetan Plateau is about to begin!

Buddhism is Flourishing in China

{Our Founding Director Fionna Heiton is currently travelling in Tibet with her teenage twins. Our Tibet tours all depart from Chengdu, China}

The first time I came to China in 1989, it was all blue suits and bicycles. Religion had no place and communist ideology was firmly embedded. Since then, China has changed beyond all belief. Chairman Mao’s huge statue in Chengdu, Sichuan province looks down upon Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Apple. China has fully embraced the international business market and is rapidly developing. With this a growing middle class, have cars, consumer goods and fine clothes. But something is missing and many are rediscovering religion to put more meaning in their lives. Buddhism is now the fastest growing religion in China. On a Saturday afternoon in Chengdu, hundreds flock to the Wenshu temple, one of the city’s oldest Buddhist sites.

Men and women pour into the chanting room to join monks in prayer. They offer incense, fruit and money before circling the pagoda style stupa outside. Later they relax at the vegetarian restaurant within the temple grounds.  It seems like China is rediscovering its past and has come full circle.

Annapurna Circuit Trek

Sometimes the old ones are the best! The Annapurna Circuit is one of the most famous and much loved treks in the world. I still wear the sweater I bought at Ledar in 2000. I have so many memories. Since then there have been changes with the roads that are being built in various parts of the trek but cleverly new tracks are emerging to avoid the roads. The scenery remains totally breath taking and if you haven't seen the Annapurnas for yourself, I would strongly recommend going and experiencing the wonderful Annapurna Circuit.

The trek starts in Lamjung where we climb through pretty rice terraces, following the Marsyangdi River through numerous hill villages. As we climb we leave the Hindu communities behind and enter Buddhist communities with huge prayer flags and mani walls.

Here we slow the pace as altitude becomes an issue. This gives us plenty of time to visit the incredible Braka Gompa (monastery) and explore the villages around Manang. The village of Braka is my personal favourite and whenever I need to imagine I am in my special place, it is Braka I go to in my head. Blue sky, sparkling water from glacial run off, yaks and wonderfully clean air. Everywhere I look- it is breathtaking. I potter up to Manang for a slice of cake at the village coffee shop and listen to the excellent lecture on altitude put on each day by the Himalayan Rescue Association.

Past Manang, we climb closer to the mountains, snowy white peaks everywhere. The Thorong La Pass at 5,416 metres is a challenge and when we finally arrive, there is just time for some photos before we need to move on due to the intense cold and lack of oxygen. Descending to the temple at Muktinath, we enter the Mustang area. The scenery changes and so do the people. We are now amidst the Thakali people who are most welcoming and keen to introduce us to their culture. 

Fields of buckwheat announce our arrival in Mustang. We head to our favourite guest house in the ancient viillage of Kagbeni. "Namaste Didi" calls the friendly owner, who I have known now for over 15 years. The food is fabulous and we tuck into wild mushroom soup and Kagbeni buckwheat bread. I am back in heaven! In the afternoon we explore the village and relax in the sun with a piece of warm home made cake. We are right on the border with Upper Mustang which has restricted entry and still has it's own King!

At Jomsom, trekkers have the option to fly out to Pokhara or continue down the Kali Gandaki river towards Tatopani and up to Poon Hill. 

Hardened walkers can continue all the way into Annpaurna Base Camp where they are rewarded with stunning views of Annapurna 1, Annapurna South and  Fishtail.

Find out more about trekking in Nepal.

Festival Fever in Bhutan!

One of the most unique travel experiences you could ask for is attending a Bhutanese festival, or tshechu as they are known as in Bhutan. There really is nothing that compares and I was over the moon to spend a day at a festival last year in central Bhutan.

So what makes a Bhutanese tshechu so special? Tshechus have been celebrated in Bhutan for hundreds of years. Celebrations begin on the 10th day of the Tibetan lunar calender and continue for 4 days. They take place in Dzongs, which are both the spiritual and administrative centre for the area. Different dances are performed on each of the days by monks dressed in elaborate costumes.

The dances depict historical events and captivate the audience.

The dances are quite mesmerising as the monks twirl.

Often a huge tongdrol or thangka is unravelled on the last day!

The musicians!

These festivals are an incredible opportunity to experience ancient ritual. 

Half the fun is meeting the locals at tschechus. 

Beyond The Clouds Journeys almost always include attending one of Bhutan's unique festivals. Do remember that flights and hotels get booked up months in advance prior to the bigger festivals at Paro, Thimpu, Punakha and Wangdue. It is a good idea to contact us as much as 6-12 months in advance to secure your place.

For more information: www.beyondtheclouds.org.nz

Email: info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz