Is trekking in the Himalayas hard?

Many people like the idea of trekking in the Himalayas (whether that’s Nepal, Ladakh, or Bhutan) but don’t know whether it would be too far out of their physical comfort zone. There’s also a lot of confusion between mountain climbing and mountain trekking. Yes, thousands of people flock to Nepal each year to trek to Everest, but only a fraction of these actually attempt to climb the mountain! You don’t need to be a uber-fit superhero to enjoy trekking in the Himalayas.

Like many things in life, trekking in the Himalayas is easier and more enjoyable if you have a reasonable level of fitness. If you regularly attend yoga classes, the gym, go for bike rides, long walks, or swim, a Himalayan trek should not be outside your comfort zone. Of course, if you have any particular health issues—especially related to the joints, lungs, or heart—you should seek professional medical advice before planning a trip. But the Himalayas offer everything from low-altitude jaunts to weeks-long expeditions at high altitude, as well as everything in between.

It’s also important to realise that fitness and the body’s reaction to high altitudes are not related. Some very fit trekkers can feel the effects of altitude badly, whereas averagely fit trekkers may have no problems at all. There are ways to mitigate the effects of altitude but fitness is not necessarily one of them.

Here are a few different options for travellers with varying levels of fitness.

Easy’

No Himalayan treks are necessarily ‘easy’. They all involve uphill and downhill walking over uneven terrain, often at high altitude and while staying in basic accommodation. But the following treks are popular among less experienced trekkers.

ANNAPURNA PANORAMA TREK, NEPAL

This trek is perfect for travellers wanting a short (four night) but spectacular trek in Nepal. Climb from pretty river scenery through beautiful rhododendron forests to Ghorepani, then up to Poon Hill for sunrise. The panoramic view from here of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurna range is superb. The trek continues through abundant rhododendron forests to a number of Gurung villages and more spectacular mountain views from Tadapani, before returning to Pokhara via Ghandruk. The highest altitude reached is at Poon Hill, which is 3,210 metres, but nights are spent at a lower altitude that should not cause any problems. This trek does involve a steep ascent up many stone steps on the first day, so trekkers should definitely carry poles to help the body along.

SHAM VALLEY TREK, LADAKH

The whole of Ladakh is high-altitude, and the capital city of Leh—where most travellers arrive—is over 3,000 metres. The highest point on the Sham Valley Trek is 3,800 metres. It’s really important that trekkers in Ladakh give themselves several days to acclimatise before heading off on a trek. Once that’s done, the Sham Valley Trek is an easy option. The three-four day route allows you to meander through the midst of Ladakh’s barren yet oftentimes surprisingly colourful landscape, pass monasteries, and stay in cut village homestays with the local people.

MID-LEVEL

If you know you’re pretty fit but don’t want to exhaust yourself while on the trip of a lifetime, check out one of these medium-difficulty options. They will challenging you without requiring years of training beforehand.

DRUK PATH TREK, BHUTAN

The five-day Druk Path trek is one of Bhutan’s most famous. It highlights the great diversity of Bhutan’s landscape. It passes through a gorgeous landscape of blue pine forests, high ridges and pristine lakes. There’s also the opportunity to visit ancient dzongs and villages. The highest altitude reached is 4,235 m, so it’s important to take your time. Find out when is the best time to visit Bhutan here.

MARDI HIMAL, NEPAL

Mardi Himal is an under-visited mountain with a recently developed trekking trail that’s waiting to be explored. The mountain landscape is as spectacular as the nearby Annapurna region, but the trek itself is less challenging than the Annapurna Base Camp trek. This trek is an ideal option for adventurous travellers who want to get off the beaten path. Walk though pristine rhododendron forests (especially vibrant in March-April), cloud forests, and charming villages to high-altitude pastures where yaks graze. From Mardi Himal Base Camp, the entire Annapurna range is visible, including Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, and Machhapuchhre (Fishtail). Follow the Mardi Khola Valley for part of the way. If you are looking for a short, rewarding trek with stunning mountain views without the crowds, the Mardi Himal trek is the perfect choice. The highest altitude reached is 4,450 metres.

CHALLENGING

If you’ve done a lot of trekking before, and consider yourself fit and up for a challenge, there are plenty of choices in the Himalayan region. Longer, more difficult treks require good support, so make sure you have a good guide and porter.

THREE PASSES TREK, NEPAL

The Three Passes Trek offers unparalleled views of dramatic summits and captivating valleys. Take in the entire Himalayan Range from Chukking-Ri and Gokyo-Ri, including the best views of Mount Everest’s summit. Follow the well-worn trail to Everest Base Camp via Kala Patthar before leaving the main trail to climb the Cho La Pass to the cobalt blue Gokyo Lakes and on to Gokyo Ri. The views are spectacular and you will see the spectacle of the Khumbu Icefall cascading from the Western Cwm. Crossing the Renjo La pass, follow a little of the route used for centuries by the Tibetan Traders via Nangpa La to get to Thame. Following the classical route, drop down to Lukla and fly back to Kathmandu. The highest altitude reached is 5,540 metres, which is very high, so be well prepared and know how to act if you or anyone in your party succumbs to altitude sickness.

LAYA GASA TREK, BHUTAN

Trekking in Bhutan is like nowhere else in the Himalayas. It’s an untouched natural wonderland. Rated as one of Bhutan’s most spectacular, the Laya Gasa trek takes you to Bhutan’s northern border with Tibet. Enjoy fabulous views of snow-capped mountains and experience the unique culture of the friendly Layap people in a truly remote corner of the Himalayas. If you’re trekking in October, don't miss the annual Royal Highlander Festival that takes place in Laya. See the local people showcasing their unique culture over a two-day event in the remote countryside. The highest altitude reached is 5,005 metres, so be prepared to stop or take it slow if you need to.

SNOWMAN TREK, BHUTAN

The ultimate challenge! The Snowman trek dubbed the hardest trek in the world is also the longest trek in Bhutan. This trek is only for highly experienced trekkers with top levels of fitness!

Bhutan’s rich culture

One of the most unique and fascinating places in the world, there simply is no other destination like Bhutan. Blending extraordinary natural beauty, rich cultural heritage and plenty of surprising quirks, Bhutan is rightfully placed at the top of many keen travellers’ bucket lists.

To maintain a low volume, sustainable model of tourism, the Bhutanese government charges a daily fee to tourists, making Bhutan appear to be one of the pricier Asian destinations. But did you know that for 2023 and beyond, travel to this Himalayan kingdom just got a whole lot less expensive?

Often referred to as the “Land of the Thunder Dragon”, Bhutan’s cultural heritage is deeply rooted in Buddhism. Monasteries, dzongs (fortified monasteries) and chortens (memorial stupas) are scattered all over the country, as well as vibrant festivals that take place at these sites.

Jakar festival, Bumthang, Central Bhutan is a wonderful opportunity to experience Bhutan’s cullture.

Thanks to significant efforts of the government, the Bhutanese Royal Family and the people of Bhutan, this cultural and religious heritage has been magnificently preserved and upheld in day-to-day life.

One of the more colourful characters in Bhutan’s history is Lama Drukpa Kunley, a Tibetan monk known as “The Divine Madman” due to his unorthodox ways of teaching and deviance from social conventions. Phallic symbols, most notably flying ones painted on the walls of houses are symbols of luck derived from Lama Drukpa Kunley’s teaching. Although startling at first, the prevalence of these phalluses adds to Bhutan’s endearing, if not humorous, charm. It is quirks like this that showcase Bhutan’s character and uniqueness.

Bhutanese people consider the phallus a symbol of fertility, offering protection from evil and bringing good fortune. Phallic symbols adorn houses all over Bhutan.

Souvenirs with a difference!

Bhutan has an innovative and unique approach to social development and environmental conservation. Famously, Bhutan holds its Gross National Happiness (GNH) over its GDP. GNH is a holistic model of development that focusses on the well-being of people as well as their harmony with nature. GNH has become a guiding philosophy for the Bhutanese government since 2008, when it was enacted into the Constitution of Bhutan. This prioritisation of national happiness over economic margins truly sets Bhutan apart internationally and increases its appeal as a fascinating location to visit.

Gross National Happiness is more important than GDP in Bhutan.

The warm hospitality in Bhutan is truly remarkable.

Bhutan also has an admirable approach to environmental protection. The government has pledged to remain a carbon neutral country, and is actually currently carbon negative as it emits around two million tonnes of carbon whilst absorbing roughly seven million. This is aided by the fact that 71% of Bhutan is covered in forest, as the constitution stipulates that national forest coverage must be at a minimum of 60%.

Bhutanese forests are abundant with mosses and lichens.

Walk or trek in Bhutan’s pristine natural environment.

Therefore, Bhutan maintains a level of magnificent  natural beauty that can be enjoyed by visitors. The dense forests and clean air make the perfect surroundings for walking and trekking, or even just to enjoy when driving through the country. 

Mount Jichu Drake

For more information contact: info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz (www.beyondtheclouds.org.nz)

The fabled Shangri-la

Off the beaten path for most Western tourists, the city of Shangri-la offers a truly special Tibetan experience. This is, of course, reflective of its namesake: Shangri-la was the fabled utopian monastery located high in the Himalayan mountains of James Hilton’s 1933 novel “Lost Horizon”. Nestled in peaceful green valleys and surrounded by majestic mountains, Shangri-la remains true to its mythical roots. The city's remote location adds to its allure, as it has preserved its authentic Tibetan charm and traditions. 

The centrepiece of Shangri-la is the Songzalin Monastery, which is often referred to as the “Little Potala Palace”. Modelled after the famous Lhasa landmark, it is one of the most important monasteries in southwest China. Originally built in 1679 by the 5th Dalai Lama, Songzalin Monstery, like many cultural sites in Tibet, was severely damaged during China’s Cultural Revolution in the 1960s and 70s. However, it was rebuilt in 1983 with meticulous care and attention to detail, preserving its architectural splendour and spiritual significance. Perched on a hilltop slightly away from the city centre, Songzalin Monastery is home to around 700 monks.

A visit to Songzalin is a truly captivating experience. The chants of monks echo through the monastery’s corridors and the fragrant smell of burning incense guides you as you explore the intricate courtyards and stairways, all whilst taking in the magnificent views of the rolling landscape surrounding Shangri-la. 

Entrance to the monastery complex

Monks debating at the monastery

After a journey over the mountains and through the buckwheat fields that encompass the city, entering Shangri-la feels like stepping into an oasis. Steeped in history, strolling through the winding streets of the city’s old Tibetan town is a particularly special experience. The old town showcases authentic Tibetan architecture and is home to restaurants and small shops selling traditional handicrafts.

Close to the old town is a giant prayer wheel, proclaimed to be one of the largest in the world. Standing 21 metres tall, this bronze-plated marvel is difficult to miss on its hilltop above the old town. Another unmissable experience in Shangri-la is the daily community dance, which occurs at 7 pm daily in the old town’s square. For dancers of any level this is one of the most fun and uplifting experiences of the city, allowing for a true immersion into the vibrant local culture.

Giant prayer wheel

Evening dance in the main square

Shangri-la offers a unique and remarkable Tibetan experience that transports visitors back to the fabled utopia that it was named after. Its remote location has preserved the city's authentic charm and traditions, providing an opportunity to immerse oneself in the rich cultural heritage of the naturally spectacular region. 

For more information on visiting Shangri-la click here

Trekking in Nepal: what to expect

Trekking in Nepal’s spectacular mountain regions is truly a must-do experience. But what should you expect on your trek.

Accommodation: Typical accommodation on Nepali trekking routes are trekking lodges often referred to as tea houses. Our guides will always try to book the best lodges in a particular village, but do be warned some (especially along more popular treks) may be full. Staying at a tea house is an authentic experience, as these family-owned businesses offer genuine hospitality and good food.

Although they range in quality, most tea houses offer basic accommodation that is a welcome reprieve after a day’s trekking. Beds will be firm most of the time, and although not always necessary, some trekkers prefer to take their own pillowcases and sleeping bag liners with them. Don’t expect luxury accommodation, but most travelers find the charm of these authentic guest houses in fact adds to the overall experience.

Food: Due to logistical issues of getting food up these mountains, do not expect high-end eating, but this doesn’t indicate a lack of quality to trekking food. Tea houses along most routes provide a wide variety of food, and in more popular trekking regions, most food on offer is often well-suited to tourist tastes, like western dishes or Tibetan momos. This is especially true with the numerous German bakeries and fake starbucks in the lower Everest regions. Do note a menu item billed as something western (for example, pizza) will not likely resemble something normally served elsewhere, but in most cases you’ll be more than happy to have a hot meal.

Tibetan momos can be either vegetarian or meat. These are served with a spicy sauce.

Typical kitchen in the mountains

Hot drinks like tea or hot lemon or ginger are near-universal throughout Nepali trekking regions, and are a must for keeping hydrated at high altitude. Foods like garlic and ginger especially help with high altitudes, so options like garlic soup is a good choice.

Trekking can leave you pretty hungry, so ordering Nepal’s national dish of dal bhat (rice and lentil curry) is a great option. The dal bhat power: 24 hour t-shirts sold in Pokhara don’t lie-this especially nutritious meal is not only energy-rich, but is also very filling-some trekking lodges even offer refills.

Dal bhat is the traditional Nepali meal and a great option when hungry.

Roti for breakfast can be served with eggs.

Difficulty: Being the home to the world’s highest mountains, Nepal’s trekking routes range from well-established paths, simple trails with markers, to unmarked routes for experts. Luckily, most routes offered by Beyond the Clouds are fairly established, and trekking routes around the Poon Hill region tend to be fairly accessible for a trekker with decent degree of fitness. Clear weather in Nepal’s trekking regions guarantees spectacular mountain views, but most treks, unless traversing mountain passes or in very high altitude will not mean trekkers will need to walk in snow.

Treks like Poon Hill, Jomsom and the lower part of the Everest region are suitable for older travellers, or even families with children, as these well-established trekking areas abundant with trekking lodges and decent food, meaning a short day on the track is possible. On the other hand, some treks, such as Khopra Ridge or Three Passes offer a more intrepid experience for trekkers with good fitness and keen for a challenge. However, other treks are suited to families with children and less fit clients.

We at Beyond The Clouds work with all our clients to design the best itinerary to suit. We also provide frequently asked questions (FAQs) which help you understand what to expect from your trek as well as a comprehensive trip dossier.

Be prepared to share the path with yaks, donkeys and mules.

For more information click here

Beyond The Clouds is back!

We are literally jumping for joy and we hope you will be too!

It’s time to dust off the hiking boots and backpack! We are thrilled to be restarting our Beyond The Clouds tours in the Himalayas from October 2022!

Travel with a difference

All profits from Beyond The Clouds journeys go directly to support the work of our education charity First Steps Himalaya. Our customers know they will experience a trip of a lifetime while supporting a worthy cause.

Experience inspiring travel for solo travelers, families, couples and small groups in this breathtaking region of the world.

Where can I travel to?

Beyond The Clouds takes travelers to:

Read on to learn more about our travel experiences and see spectacular photos from our favourite places.

NEPAL TREKS

Home to the highest mountain in the world, the allure of Nepal calls travelers back again and again! And for good reason - the breathtaking snowy peaks, vibrant culture, friendly and welcoming local people make this country a real feast for the senses.

The Three Passes Trek is one of the most spectacular hiking trails in Nepal, offering unparalleled views of dramatic summits and captivating valleys. Shorter treks are ideal for families or those will less time. Nepal has something for everyone and will draw you back time after time!

Beyond the Clouds has a range of flexible tailor-made itineraries and great ideas suited to all types of travellers. Create your own Nepal experience without being part of a tour group.

Our Yoga Journeys are back! Yoga teachers wishing to lead a yoga journey welcome to contact us.

Stunning views from this eco- lodge looking out on the Annapurna range.

BHUTAN

Discover this mystical Land of the Thunder Dragon, where monasteries are part of the mainstream and traditional culture, architecture, and Buddhism thrive.

Often referred to as the last Shangri-La, Bhutan offers the ultimate travel experience! Experience the rich Buddhist culture, a stunning natural environment, well-preserved and unique traditions and friendly local people.

The iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery

Picturesque Punakha Dzong

Colourful festivals in Bhutan

Time your visit to coincide with a Tsechu, or festival, held annually in towns and villages throughout the kingdom. These spectacularly colourful and captivating events draw hundreds of Bhutanese people in a spirit of reverence, blessing, festivity and celebration. Festivals in Bhutan take place in Dzongs (monasteries) and come to life with spectacular colour, music, dance, and drama. Villagers gather to witness the incredible masked dances that depict traditional Bhutanese and Buddhist tales.

Experience glorious colourful culture on a Bhutan festival journey

Bhutan Yoga Journeys combine yoga with the best of Bhutan

 

Walking holidays are a fun and picturesque way to experience the country and landscape in Bhutan

Bhutan has some stunning treks for the more adventurous travelers

LADAKH

Located in a hidden corner of northern India, Ladakh is one of the least populated areas of the Himalaya. Cradled between the world's highest mountain ranges on the edge of the Tibetan Plateau, Ladakh means ‘land of many passes’. Landing in Leh, the capital of Ladakh, is like stepping back to a time when lives were lived according to the seasons and the scriptures, and the outside world is far away. 

Visit picturesque white-washed monasteries perched atop rocky hills and mountains, where Buddhist philosophy is taught and debated. Trek amid breathtaking landscapes and experience the rich culture of Ladakh. Experience the warm hospitality of the local Ladakhi people.

The team at Beyond The Clouds have found some real gems for you to stay in, on the banks of the Indus River, in off-the-beaten-track villages and in the historic heart of Leh. From simple Ladakhi homestays to boutique hotels, we keep your comfort in mind while offering an authentic experience.

Explore incredible Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh

Ladakh home to the snow leopard and other magnificent wildlife

 

Hemis festival

Trek Ladakh

TIBET

As we wait for Tibet to reopen, here are some stunning ideas to whet your appetite. We can’t wait to be back in Tibet and will let you know once tours are possible again.

Songzanlin Monastery, Shangri La

Pilgrims in Lhasa

Potala Palace, Lhasa

Tacheng

Mount Kailash

What’s special about Beyond The Clouds?

1) Your travel directly supports education in rural Nepal

This travel business is a social enterprise. This means all profits from our journeys go directly to support the work of our education charity First Steps Himalaya.

2) We support local economies in the Himalaya

Our Himalayan tours are guided by local guides who know their areas intimately. We hand-pick locally owned and operated hotels and restaurants for our travelers. This helps communities financially and provides you with a richer experience by connecting you with real local people wherever you go.

3) We care for the Himalayan environment

Where possible, we choose eco-friendly hotels and encourage our guides and customers to follow sustainable tourism practices. We love the Himalayas like our home and we want to take care of it!

4) We really know the region

Our team are passionate travelers, and experts on the Himalaya. Between us we have decades of knowledge and experience travelling around and organising tours in the region.

What our clients say

The whole yoga tour exceeded my expectations in terms of accommodation, safety, fun and friendliness of the locals. The itinerary was very well thought out and our tour guide was an exemplary organiser!” Gael, New Zealand.

“Our decision to use Beyond The Clouds was absolutely the right decision! The trip was everything we had hoped it would be and more. The planning was excellent, our lodgings great, the cultural sights which gave us a true picture to life in Bhutan and we cannot say enough about our guide, Pema, and driver. We even received special treatment in Kathmandu, Nepal, our layover place, at a recommended restaurant for Ken’s birthday. We love that there is a charitable aspect to Beyond The Clouds. Ken and Stella, U.S.A

"The whole experience was quite mind-blowing! The magnificent scenery, amazing sights and the great yoga combined to make this a memorable experience. The accommodation in Bhutan was luxurious. Our guide and driver were exceptionally helpful and knowledgeable. I would certainly recommend this holiday to other people" Sue, U.K.

Click here for more reviews

When Bhutan bounces back!

2020 has been quite a remarkable year for all of us and certainly one that we won’t easily forget. Who could have imagined that travel would become almost impossible, flights grounded and communities throughout the world in total lockdown?

We at Beyond The Clouds are optimistic about the future of travel, though remain cautious in promoting travel to the Himalayan region until the pandemic is under control. We thought it would be nice to focus on the positives at the end of this very challenging year and give you a taster of places that you might be able to visit in Bhutan in 2021!

Looking for a walking holiday where you don’t need to carry your bags and get to sleep in a comfortable bed each night? A Bhutan Walking holiday is for you! We have two awesome options in Western and Central Bhutan but can tailor-make a tour to suit you, your level of fitness and specific requirements. In fact with Beyond The Clouds, you do not have to join a scheduled tour as we tailor make every trip to suit our client’s requirements.

Exploring Paro is a real treat! Despite being home to Bhutan’s only international airport, Paro is a small, relaxed place, with its quaint shopping streets, fabulous Sunday market, weekend archery competitions, Paro Dzong and the traditional, much photographed cantilever bridge across the river Chu. The iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery is just a short drive away offering Bhutan’s ultimate monastery experience. The climb to the cliff hugging temple is not as hard as it looks and the views are simply stunning.

Bhutan’s unique and deeply traditional festivals are an absolute must when planning a Bhutan trip. There are numerous festivals throughout the year across the country and whether you attend the famous Paro Festival in the spring or one of the smaller local festivals in the beautiful Bumthang valley, you will not be disappointed. Full of colour and pageantry, these tshechus, as they are known in Bhutan can be an absolute highlight to any Bhutan tour. To check out Festival dates for 2021 click here.

Want to get off the beaten track? Trekking in Bhutan is the ultimate get away from it experience taking you through ancient forests hanging with lichen or climbing through alpine scenery to remote indigenous mountain communities.

Planning a Bhutan holiday in 2021 or 2022? Beyond The Clouds has it covered with exceptional guides, fabulous accommodation and some of the best kept secrets that Bhutan has to offer. We look forward to welcoming you to Bhutan as soon as it is safe to travel again.

Contact us for more information: info@beyondtheclouds.org

www.beyondtheclouds.org.nz

Our amazing Himalayan team

The tourism industry employs millions of people around the world ( at least it did until Covid-19). Developing countries particularly in the Himalayan region relied heavily on tourism for employment and GDP. Pre- Covid-19, an estimated 1 million Nepalis worked in tourism. from hotels to restaurants, from taxi drivers to trekking guides and porters. In Bhutan, over 50,000 people are employed in tourism, and many are freelancers and drivers who depend completely on the tourism sector for their livelihood.

We aim to ensure that every single Beyond The Clouds client gets the experience that exceeds their expectations. We work with clients from the very moment they contact us to plan the perfect trip for them. In the New Zealand office, we produce meticulously planned itineraries that take in the very best iof each of our destinations at a pace that suits the client. One of the keys to our success is having amazing ground teams in each of our wonderful locations: Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and Ladakh. We couldn’t do it without their dedication, attention to detail and local knowledge.

ISHWAR AND OUR KNOWLEDGEABLE NEPAL TEAM

In Nepal, Ishwar is one of our most popular trekking guides. He has been guiding treks in the Annapurna region for years and has worked for Beyond The Clouds since we started. . He knows the trekking routes every step of the way. He also keeps us up to date when there have been changes along the way, new paths or interesting diversions as they open up. This allows us to make our treks even more special, knowing that our clients are in expert hands.

We also partner a number of very special hotels and resorts in Nepal that we have been using for over 20 years or more. We develop excellent relationships with their managers and this means that we can rest assured that our clients will have a comfortable stay.

YANGCHEN AND OUR LOVELY TEAM IN BHUTAN

In Bhutan, our lovely representative Yangchen meets all of our clients whilst they are in Thimpu to make sure that they have had a good time. Yangchen is highly experienced, well-organised and exceptionally caring. She arranges surprises for clients on their birthdays and arranges all sorts of special extras for honeymooners.

Yangchen coordinates all our hotels, guides, drivers ensuring our clients can relax and enjoy their holiday.

TSERING AND OUR TERRIFIC TIBETAN TEAM

In Tibet, we have several teams due to the enormity of the region. Our guides are all Tibetan, speak fluent English and are highly knowledgeable. Originally from Amdo, Tsering is one of our favourite and most experienced guides. Tsering is an expert on all things Tibet and has travelled extensively throughout the region.

No matter where you travel in Tibet, we have knowledgeable guides who look after you taking you to authentic and charming accommodation along the way.

TASHI IN LADAKH

Our Ladakhi team is led by Tashi who has been working in tourism for over 20 years and is one of Ladakh’s most reputable tour organisers specialising in trekking, snow leopard tours and off the beaten track journeys. Tashi and his wife personally host many of our clients including yoga groups in his gorgeous home-stay just outside Leh.

We are so lucky to have such an amazing team throughout the Himalayan region. We keep in touch during these challenging times and can’t wait to run our unique tours again when it is safe to do so.

For more information contact info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz

The future of travel

People have always travelled, migrating across the planet since pre-historic times. Most of us grew up with a sense that given the will and the money, we could travel anywhere. We would never imagined that there would come a time when travel globally would not be possible.

Nepal has always been a very popular destination for travelers. Tourism in Nepal has been growing since the 1960’s and 70’s, when the great overland routes from Europe to Kathmandu attracted the ‘hippy’ generation of travellers. At that time, Freak Street in Kathmandu was full of cheap accommodation and cafes selling apple pie and chocolate cake. As time went on, tourism evolved into something more sophisticated as standards rose and a wider range of visitors discovered Nepal. By early 2020, over a million Nepalis were employed in the tourist industry in Nepal.

Then the COVID-19 pandemic came along and changed everything. At no other time in recent history, has travel been halted on such a huge scale affecting almost the entire world. People began to wonder if they would ever travel again. The tourism industry in Nepal and the entire Himalayan region was delivered a devastating blow!

Hotels have lain empty, trekking lodges have no passing trade, guides and porters are without work and hundreds of thousands of people who rely on the tourist trade have been seriously impacted. If you could be in these beautiful places now, imagine how wonderful it would be without anyone there..

Silver Linings

There are of course some benefits to a global lock-down of this scale. The world started to breathe, as thick pollution in the Kathmandu valley lifted affording the city’s residents magnificent mountain views and breathable air. There were no queues at Angkor Wat, blue skies over Beijing and clear waters in Venice.

This is a time for us to pause and reassess our lives and the impact we are having on the planet. Yes, travel will resume but wouldn’t it be great if it was more responsible and sustainable? Staying closer to home for at least some of our leisure time is a great option. Long haul travel of the way we knew it may take longer to return.

The majority of Beyond The Clouds clients have chosen to postpone their travel rather than cancel. People are eager to travel and are spending the time doing their research. Bhutan is high on the list for many as, not only has Bhutan handled the pandemic extremely well with low case numbers but already has a sustainable tourism policy in place to avoid overcrowding. Many yearn to trek in Nepal with its stunning mountain scenery and warm hospitality. Tibet is opening back up and Ladakh may not be too far behind.

However, we, at Beyond The Clouds are taking a cautious approach and advising our clients to look at 2021, possibly the March/ April season but more likely the October/ November season.

The Himalayan region is very dependent on tourism and your visit can help provide much needed income and local employment. Beyond The Clouds prefers to use charming authentic accommodation where the money stays with local families where possible. Rather than tourists,

The tourism industry as we knew it had significant impacts on natural resources, pollution and society. Ironically, tourists were often unknowingly contributing to the destruction of the natural environment that they travelled to experience. In Nepal, forests were cut down to provide fuel to create hot water and meals for trekkers on the trekking routes, whilst fumes from an increasing number of vehicles in Kathmandu played a part in the dreadful pollution in the capital.

Beyond The Clouds believes in sustainable travel by using local family run accommodation and restaurants, hiring local guides and porters and helping local communities preserve their culture not destroy it. Here are some great ideas:

Travel inspiration

Stay in a tented camp on the Tibetan plateau founded by a Tibetan nomad and his wife keen to share the splendours of Tibetan nomadic life. OR go on a pilgrimage tour in Kham, Tibet learning how to make and hang prayer flags in a tiny village overlooking one of Tibet’s most scared mountains.

Go on a tea house trek in Nepal staying in locally run tea house lodges, eating local produce and with a knowledgeable guide who can explain the culture and traditions to you.

Visit off the beaten track Haa Valley in Bhutan, staying at a warm and friendly family run heritage lodge. Explore the area on foot and soak in a traditional hot stone bath before enjoying a home cooked dinner.

Trek in Ladakh staying in remote village homestays and ending up at a cozy Ladakhi run guest house overlooking an off the beaten track village.

The team at Beyond The Clouds are here to help whether you plan to travel in 2021 or beyond!

What is the food like in Bhutan? Savouring Bhutan's culinary delights

Planning a trip to Bhutan? One question on your mind (other than the obvious one of when will it be safe to travel there post COVID-19) might be ‘What is the food like in Bhutan? ’. Despite its close proximity to India and Nepal, Bhutanese cuisine is little heard of and completely different to that of its neighbours.

The first thing I heard about food in Bhutan was ‘It’s really spicy and everything has chillies in it.’ Whilst in some ways that is true and the national dish ema datshi is certainly very spicy, there are lots of other dishes that are gentler on the palate.

A great place to introduce yourself to Bhutan’s traditional dishes is by having lunch at one of several farmhouses around the Paro Valley. These rustic eateries lay on authentic lunches for visitors. We had lunch at the welcoming Ugyen farmhouse which is a short drive from Paro Dzong. Seated in a traditional Bhutanese dining room, dish after dish appeared, steaming hot and very appetizing. My favourite was asparagus and locally grown red rice. This special variety of rice, red in colour with a nutty taste is known for it’s high nutritional content. Red rice has been grown in the fertile Paro Valley for thousands of years.

My absolute favourite vegetables in Bhutan are fiddlehead greens, the furled fronds of a young fern. Harvested early in the season before the frond has opened and reached its full height, these ferns are rich in antioxidants, iron and fibre. They are also a great source of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Nakey Datshi is a wonderful dish with fiddlehead greens lightly tossed in oil and cooked with yak or cow cheese. Vegan versions without the cheese available too.

Image by Marie O'Malley from Pixabay

Image by Marie O'Malley from Pixabay

Next stop was Paro Sunday market where local traders sell huge amounts of chillies, local cheese (to go in the ema dastshi) and all sorts of unusual vegetables. The market is a fabulous place to explore, meet the locals and find out more about Bhutan’s incredible range of fresh produce.

Bhutan’s capital Thimpu, has loads of good eating options. For those hanging out for Western food, there are a couple of good pizzerias. Do remember to ask for pizza without chillis if you prefer. This must be the only place in the world where you can order Ema Datshi flavoured pizza, definitely an acquired taste!

My hotel Zhiwaling Ascent nestled in a forest just outside Thimpu, not only has a Kiwi chef (training young Bhutanese chefs in international cuisine) but serves devine home-made sour dough bread and dukkah for those missing a taste of home. The risotto on the all day dining menu was heavenly with fresh flavours.

Travelling further east, I wasn’t expecting to find Swiss cheese and a micro brewery in Bumthang in Central Bhutan. There is quite a story behind the bucolic Swiss Guest House, famed for their fondue evenings, chocolate cakes and home made Swiss muesli. When, Fritz Maurer, Swiss cheesemaker answered an ad from the Bhutanese government 50 years ago he had no idea that he would not return from the little place in the middle of Bhutan that he came to call home. Fritz’s family now make several cheeses including Emmental, Gouda, and Gruyere. Find out more

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Back in Western Bhutan, in the picturesque Haa Valley, I was treated to delicious local trout at the family run Soenam Zingkha heritage lodge. Personally overseen by the friendly owner, the kitchen produces some of the tastiest food that I encountered in Bhutan.

Bhutan is a great place for vegans and vegetarians. There are plenty options especially at the buffets available at most of the tourist hotels. Indian dishes such as daal, chickpea and bean curries are common, and for vegetarians there are dishes with paneer. These tend to be less spicy than their Bhutanese counterparts.

There are more Western style cafes opening up especially around Thimpu and Paro. One unusual place is Your Cafe at the Neyphug Heritage Complex near Paro Airport. Set in previously abandoned ruins, the traditional Bhutanese mud-rammed building is now a landmark with its rustic character. The former residence of His Eminence The Neyphug Trulku Rinpoche, the complex remains part of Neyphug Monastery. Fully vegetarian, all proceeds from the cafe goes to the sustainability and funding of the monastery.

Yes, the food in Bhutan is completely different to almost anywhere else in the world and you may be apprehensive about trying some of it. But my advice is to give it a go, you might be surprised at how much you enjoy some of the culinary delights Bhutan has to offer.

To design your own foodie tour of Bhutan visit www.beyondtheclouds.org.nz

Journey across Tibet to Nepal: a future partner & founding First Steps Himalaya

When Founding Director, Fionna Heiton set off on her epic journey into Tibet and on to Nepal in 1998, she had no idea that she was about to meet her future partner and start an organisation that would transform early years education across Nepal.

“I had always dreamt of going to Tibet and after thoroughly researching my options of getting in without being on a tour, I landed in the Chinese city of Chengdu where there was a hotel known for creating tours for foreigners like myself.” A few days later, Fionna found herself in Tibet’s capital Lhasa on the roof of the world. “I couldn’t believe how easy the process for obtaining a visa and plane ticket was after all.”

Completely mesmerized by the ancient Barkhor market, Jokhang Temple and Tibetan culture, Fionna explored the city: monasteries, the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama and of course the stunning Potala Palace itself. She spent hours sitting on the roof of the Jokhang Temple watching the monks below and the city beyond.

A few days later, she joined other travellers and set off again to the magical Namtso Lake. Set at the staggering altitude of 4,718 metres, temperatures plummeted at night, as did oxygen levels. “The trip to Namtso was quite an adventure! At one point, the jeep broke down in the late afternoon out on the marsh by the lake. It was freezing” Fionna recalls despite about eight layers of clothing.

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Another side trip took her to the Yarlung Valley, the cradle of Tibetan civilization. Samye Monastery was accessed by boat across the Brahmaputra river. There was just one very basic guest house at the time. set in a medieval looking back street. This was adventure travel at its best!

Returning to Lhasa, the final leg of the journey was a drive across the high altitude Tibetan plateau via the ancient towns of Gyantse and Shigatse. The air was thin, the food spicy and the toilets open plan (which proved very interesting). The scenery was constantly changing: huge lakes, glaciers and ancient villages dotted across the landscape. Before leaving Tibet, the road descended steeply around seemingly endless hair-pin bends. When the Nepal border finally came in sight, Fionna had no idea that she would end up working in the rural hilly area that she drove through that day.

Arriving in Nepal’s capital Kathmandu, and dreaming of her first hot shower in a while, Fionna checked into a hotel in the tourist area. She was out of luck with the hot water and moved the next day to a hotel that had been recommended to her, tired, hungry and in need of a shower. She was also down to her last $50. Determined to stay in Nepal, she planned to go job hunting immediately.

The restaurant manager, a young Nepali man named Durga noticed that she couldn’t even afford a coffee and placed a hot steaming cup in front of her: on the house! The rest is history and Fionna and Durga have now been together for the last 22 years.

In 2001, when expecting their twin babies, Fionna and Durga decided to start an organisation to give Nepali children access to better educational opportunities. Inspired by Durga’s childhood, and now their own children’s future, they became passionate advocates for improving education in rural communities and helping others see the immense difference it can make. First Steps Himalaya was born. Find out more here.

Together they have travelled extensively with their children in the Himalayan region including the Everest Base Camp Trek when the twins were just 7 years old. They’ve explored Ladakh and driven from Chengdu in China to Shangrila in Tibet. ‘Our children have grown up with an incredible sense of adventure and love connecting with their relatives in Nepal.’ They are both passionate about helping others less privileged and are determined to make a real difference in the world.

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For inspiration on travelling with children check out our tailor made tours in Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and Ladakh or email us: info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz