Journey across Tibet to Nepal: a future partner & founding First Steps Himalaya

When Founding Director, Fionna Heiton set off on her epic journey into Tibet and on to Nepal in 1998, she had no idea that she was about to meet her future partner and start an organisation that would transform early years education across Nepal.

“I had always dreamt of going to Tibet and after thoroughly researching my options of getting in without being on a tour, I landed in the Chinese city of Chengdu where there was a hotel known for creating tours for foreigners like myself.” A few days later, Fionna found herself in Tibet’s capital Lhasa on the roof of the world. “I couldn’t believe how easy the process for obtaining a visa and plane ticket was after all.”

Completely mesmerized by the ancient Barkhor market, Jokhang Temple and Tibetan culture, Fionna explored the city: monasteries, the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama and of course the stunning Potala Palace itself. She spent hours sitting on the roof of the Jokhang Temple watching the monks below and the city beyond.

A few days later, she joined other travellers and set off again to the magical Namtso Lake. Set at the staggering altitude of 4,718 metres, temperatures plummeted at night, as did oxygen levels. “The trip to Namtso was quite an adventure! At one point, the jeep broke down in the late afternoon out on the marsh by the lake. It was freezing” Fionna recalls despite about eight layers of clothing.

Another side trip took her to the Yarlung Valley, the cradle of Tibetan civilization. Samye Monastery was accessed by boat across the Brahmaputra river. There was just one very basic guest house at the time. set in a medieval looking back street. This was adventure travel at its best!

Returning to Lhasa, the final leg of the journey was a drive across the high altitude Tibetan plateau via the ancient towns of Gyantse and Shigatse. The air was thin, the food spicy and the toilets open plan (which proved very interesting). The scenery was constantly changing: huge lakes, glaciers and ancient villages dotted across the landscape. Before leaving Tibet, the road descended steeply around seemingly endless hair-pin bends. When the Nepal border finally came in sight, Fionna had no idea that she would end up working in the rural hilly area that she drove through that day.

Arriving in Nepal’s capital Kathmandu, and dreaming of her first hot shower in a while, Fionna checked into a hotel in the tourist area. She was out of luck with the hot water and moved the next day to a hotel that had been recommended to her, tired, hungry and in need of a shower. She was also down to her last $50. Determined to stay in Nepal, she planned to go job hunting immediately.

The restaurant manager, a young Nepali man named Durga noticed that she couldn’t even afford a coffee and placed a hot steaming cup in front of her: on the house! The rest is history and Fionna and Durga have now been together for the last 22 years.

In 2001, when expecting their twin babies, Fionna and Durga decided to start an organisation to give Nepali children access to better educational opportunities. Inspired by Durga’s childhood, and now their own children’s future, they became passionate advocates for improving education in rural communities and helping others see the immense difference it can make. First Steps Himalaya was born. Find out more here.

Together they have travelled extensively with their children in the Himalayan region including the Everest Base Camp Trek when the twins were just 7 years old. They’ve explored Ladakh and driven from Chengdu in China to Shangrila in Tibet. ‘Our children have grown up with an incredible sense of adventure and love connecting with their relatives in Nepal.’ They are both passionate about helping others less privileged and are determined to make a real difference in the world.

For inspiration on travelling with children check out our tailor made tours in Nepal, Bhutan, Tibet and Ladakh or email us: info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz

When's the Best Time to Travel to Ladakh?

Ladakh is a high-altitude region of northern India that’s known for its fabulous mountain scenery, brightly coloured lakes, and well-preserved Tibetan Buddhist culture. It’s a bucket-list destination for many adventurous travellers, and for many good reasons (the temples, monasteries, and festivals are just a few).

But, although it’s much more accessible these days than it used to be, Ladakh is still quite an isolated and cut-off region of India, and some seasons are certainly better—and more comfortable—for visiting than others. Read on for our insider knowledge of the best time to visit Ladakh.

Summer (June-August)

Summer is by far the best time to visit Ladakh for most purposes, and it’s when the region sees most visitors. Days are hot in the summer—around 25°C in the small capital of Leh, at 3500 metres—although temperatures drop a lot at night, and depending on altitude. The sun is also very strong at this altitude, so be very vigilant about wearing sunscreen.

Summer is the best time for most activities in Ladakh, because not only are the temperatures most pleasant, the roads are generally clear of snow and ice. Hiking is a popular activity in Ladakh, and there are networks of homestays where you can experience the local Ladakhi way of life. White-water rafting is also popular, on the Zanskar and Indus Rivers, and while water temperatures are always cold (you’ll need a wetsuit), it’s only possible to do this in summer. General sightseeing around the temples, monasteries, and high-altitude lakes of Ladakh is also best in summer.

If you happen to be in Ladakh in late June/early July (the dates shift according to the lunar calendar), the Hemis Monastery Festival is a must-visit. Hemis Monastery is one of the most important monasteries in all Ladakh. Its annual festival—where monks perform ancient stories—is a riot of colourful masks and costumes.

A lot of accommodation in Leh, as well as elsewhere in Ladakh, is only open during the summer. While you may find limited accommodation options at other times of year, a lot of Ladakh shuts down outside of summer.

Ladakh is also most accessible in summer, as you can get there by flight or overland. Most travellers, especially those short on time, will prefer to fly from Delhi, as this is by far the most comfortable option. But if you’re doing a long tour of India and covering the country overland, the high mountain passes from Srinagar (Kashmir) and Manali (Himachal Pradesh) are an alternative way of reaching Ladakh. These roads are only open from June to August, as they’re snowed in at other times. While the long (16-hour-plus) journey can be uncomfortable, it’s spectacularly scenic—perhaps one of the most stunning road trips in the whole world.

Another major advantage of visiting Ladakh in summer is that it’s one of the few places in South Asia that is at it’s best at this time of year. While Delhi and the North Indian plains swelter in summer, South India is awash with heavy monsoon rains, and Nepal and Bhutan are similarly wet and soggy, Ladakh is perfect: dry, clear, sunny-yet-cool, and open for business.

Shoulder seasons: March-May and September-October

Winter is long in Ladakh, and enclose the relatively short summer. The motorable high passes of Ladakh are often covered in snow until early-mid June, and become snowbound again by early-mid September. If you want to visit Ladakh during these shoulder seasons, flying is the only way. Temperatures will be cold (bring a good jacket, hat, and gloves, and possibly even your own winter-weight sleeping bag), but you may still experience some nice sunny days. By the end of April, the days can be very sunny and pleasant in the day.

You’re likely to be quite limited in where you can go during these times, and will have to stick to the areas around Leh, at 3500 metres altitude or less. It will be difficult (or impossible) to travel to the high-altitude lakes, such as Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri, as the high roads getting there will be blocked. But, there are still many beautiful sights not far from Leh (such as Shey, Hemis, Thiksey, Alchi, and other monasteries), and some accommodation will be open. Trekking will largely be out, as the conditions will be too cold at higher altitudes, but some day walks may still be possible. 

While the shoulder seasons don’t offer such a range of experiences as the summer, there is still plenty to see and do, enough facilities open, and far fewer tourists than during the summer. If you come prepared for colder temperatures, you’ll still have a great time.

Winter (November-February)

Winters in Ladakh are very cold. The region is surrounded by very high mountains (the edge of the Himalayan chain) and sits at a very high altitude. It’s not uncommon for temperatures to be as low as -20°C in Leh, and even colder at higher altitudes. Tourist facilities essentially shut down in winter, and you’re unlikely to find accommodation. Pipes freeze, so you can forget about hot showers! If you do travel to Ladakh in winter, you’ll be restricted to Leh and its immediate surroundings, for the most part.

If you’re an avid wildlife enthusiast, there’s one activity that’s best in winter: snow leopard tracking. These rare animals live in Ladakh’s Hemis National Park. Around 200 of them are predicted to live here. While they’re hard for the untrained eye to spot, by joining a tour with a trained naturalist, you’ll have a good chance of spotting them. Such tours can be taken at any time of year, conditions are best from October to April. Beyond The Clouds organises small group tailor made snow leopard tours with expert guides.

Another winter-only activity that should only be attempted if you’re extremely adventurous and very experienced at high-altitude winter trekking: the Chadar Trek. This trek through the Zanskar Gorge follows the frozen Zanskar River. It has traditionally been the only travel route for locals in the area in winter, but has also gained recognition by international travellers in recent years as an extreme adventure destination. Along the way, you’ll see spectacular ice formations, dramatic cliffs, and a truly dramatic landscape that few travellers will ever get to experience.

Our advice, though: this landscape also looks stunning in summer. Visit then.

Read more informative articles about travel to Ladakh:

• Nine Must-See Monasteries in Ladakh, India

• The Colourful Hemis Monastery Festival

• Top 10 Things to Experience in Ladakh

• Is Trekking in the Himalayas Hard?

• A Handy Packing List for Trekking in the Himalaya

For more information about Ladakh and to explore travel options email info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz or visit www.beyondtheclouds.org.nz

Choosing the best travel insurance for you

Finding the right travel insurance can be a daunting experience. There are literally thousands of companies out there offering travel insurance packages but finding the best option that suits your pocket AND provides adequate cover is not so easy. What is included and what is not included in an insurance package varies enormously between companies. Whilst some standard policies cover trip interruption costs others don’t. Some policies will cover alternative therapies, compassionate emergency visits home and accidental death. Many companies offer a few different tiers of cover and you should think carefully about what is best suited to you rather than always opting for the cheapest one.

Some people assume that the ‘free’ travel insurance provided by their credit card company will cover them. But they don’t read the small print and the cover may not be adequate. This varies from company to company.

Your destination is important too. You need to check if the policy you are looking at covers you at altitudes over 3,000 metres. Many Beyond The Clouds treks in Nepal and Bhutan take travellers well over 3,000 metres such as Laya Ghasa and Jomolhari in Bhutan, whilst in Nepal the Three Passes trek, Gokyo Lakes and Everest Base Camp. Anyone going to Ladakh or most parts of Tibet will be travelling over 3,000 metres so this is something to watch out for in the small print. If you are doing any form of adventure sport, you will probably need extra cover too. Although trekking on good paths is not normally considered an adventure sport.

Older travellers are not always covered by standard policies. If you are travelling as a family, it often pays to find a policy that will cover all of you rather than buying separate insurance.

We at Beyond The Clouds have loved World Nomads Insurance for many years. We use it ourselves and in fact we have good reason to love them even more following my recent accident whilst on holiday in Cambodia. With a badly sprained ankle, the Cambodian doctor said that although I was fit to fly the next day, I must return on business class with my leg elevated to avoid getting a deep vein thrombosis (DVT). I can honestly say that World Nomads were sensational. From the moment I contacted them, I was impressed with their speed, efficiency and professionalism. They got straight onto the airline and although there were no business class seats available, they booked me a new ticket on a flight 15 mins before the one I should have been on with my family. I was so impressed and will continue to choose World Nomads travel insurance every time.

Imagine what you would do if something awful happened on your trip and you were not covered. The bill for private medical care, new flights and replacement items can run into thousands. For a much smaller sum, travel insurance offers peace of mind and practical support when things turn out differently.

Of course no one wants to have to anything go wrong on their holiday but having fully comprehensive travel insurance in place means you can relax safe in the knowledge that you would be looked after should you need it. Safe travels!!

Why October and November are the Best Months to Visit Nepal

October and November are peak tourism season in Nepal, and as with most places that are popular at a particular time of year, this is for several very good reasons. The weather tends to be optimal at this time, the mountain views are good, conditions on trekking trails are comfortable, plus there are a couple of huge festivals (and some smaller ones, too) that make these months exciting times to visit.

While October tends to be busier with tourists than November, in our opinion, November is actually the better month of the two. The weather is crisper in November, and as anyone who has spent much time in Nepal will tell you, crisp, clear air shouldn’t be taken for granted!

To see and experience Nepal at its best, you should definitely plan to visit in October or November. Here are a few reasons why.

The weather

Despite being a Himalayan country with a lot of snow-clad, high mountains that are cold to visit at any time of year, much of Nepal is actually at a lower altitude and is anything but cold throughout the year. Take it from the Himalayan experts: the overwhelming feeling of Nepal is heat, dust, and humidity.

That’s why many of us welcome autumn in Nepal, after the sticky monsoon. We know that the winter is going to bring colder temperatures, but October and November are a beautiful happy medium. Less humid than spring and summer/monsoon but still sunny and warm in the day. A low chance of rain after the first week of October. Plus, Kathmandu’s notorious dust has been washed away by the monsoon, leaving clearer skies in October and November. And, even if you’re planning on heading out into the mountains, you’re likely to need to spend a bit of time in Nepal’s main cities (Kathmandu and Pokhara) en route, which is where the cooler, clearer conditions are most welcome.

Trekking conditions

Speaking of heading into the mountains, as this is a major reason why many travelers come to Nepal in the first place… October and November are perfect times to hit the mountain trails. With little chance of rain, especially later in October and into November, trails are in the best condition of the year. Plus, low humidity means that the mountain views are often beautifully clear.

The most popular trails—such as Everest Base Camp Annapurna Circuit and Poon Hill—can be quite busy during this season, which is all the more reason to trek with a trusted guide who can secure the best accommodation for you ahead of time (rather than trekking independently and risk finding nowhere to stay!) They’re busy for good reason, because the sights, experiences, and facilities are among the best in Nepal. But, if you wanted to avoid the worst of the crowds, some other trails see far fewer visitors and offer comparably amazing experiences to the ‘big name’ treks, such as the beautiful but lesser-visited Mardi Himal trek or Gokyo and Beyond

Major festivals in October and November

Hindu and Buddhist festivals in Nepal follow a lunar calendar, meaning the dates according to our Gregorian calendar aren’t the same every year. So, a festival that falls in late September one year may fall in early or mid-October the next. But, in general, the following festivals fall sometime in October or November. Whether you’re traveling to Nepal for the mountains or the jungles, checking out these vibrant, important festivals is a great way to get a dose of culture and to better understand this diverse and colourful country.

Dashain

Dashain—also called Dashami, Vijaya Dashami, or Dusshera/Durga Puja (in India)—is the most important festival of the year to most Nepali Hindus. It celebrates the triumph of good over evil. Although the festival itself runs for 15 days, there are just a handful of days that are most important. Animals are sacrificed to the goddess Durga (Nepal is a far less vegetarian country than neighboring India!) and elder family members adorn younger members with large rice and vermillion powder tikkas. This is a time when many Nepalis will travel back to their home villages to spend time with their families.  

From a tourist’s perspective, unless you’re invited into a Nepali home during Dashain, you may not get as much of an up-close perspective of this festival as others. Dashain happens within homes, temples, and smaller communities, rather than out in the streets as a joyous affair, like many other festivals. But, if you’re trekking in the mountains, you may well get the chance to stop by a local home—the Annapurna region is best for this, as the Everest region is predominantly Sherpa, who are Buddhists and don’t really celebrate Dashain. Plus, if you happen to be in Kathmandu during Dashain, you’ll be amazed by how quiet the streets are—much of the population clears out back to their ancestral homes.

Tihar

Tihar is the second-most important festival to Nepali Hindus, and follows a couple of weeks after Dashain. It’s what’s called Diwali or Deepavali in India, and in fact Nepalis on the Terai tend to call the festival Deepavali rather than Tihar. It’s the festival of lights, and it’s a beautiful time to be in Nepal, especially in the cities, because homes and businesses adorn their buildings with fairy lights and small earthen lanterns, and paint colourful rangoli patterns outside their doors. Like Dashain, Tihar lasts for several days, but there are three main days of the festival, with the biggest being ‘Bhai Tikka’, when sisters bless their brothers with colourful tikkas on their foreheads, and in turn brothers give their sisters gifts.

Tihar is celebrated differently in the hills and on the plains of Nepal, but wherever you go there’s likely to be some Tihar festivities. Like Dashain it’s a festival that’s celebrated at home, but there’s a much more public element to Tihar, with all the colourful lights and decorations.

Chhath

If you happen to be visiting the Terai (such as the Chitwan National Park) in the week or so after Tihar, don’t miss Chhath festivities. This is only celebrated on the Terai, or by people who originated there. Devotees fast and make offerings to the sun at river banks, seven days after the end of Tihar. If you happen to be in Kathmandu rather than the Terai, Chhath is celebrated at the Rani Pokhari tank in central Kathmandu residents of Kathmandu who hail from the Terai.

If Himalayan festivals really appeal to you, you can also go on tailor-made tours to Bhutan that focus on the colourful Tibetan Buddhist festivals held in monasteries there.

Want to visit Nepal in October, November, or at any other time of year? Email us at info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz to find out how we can help.

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Understanding the Different Regions of Tibet: Kham, Amdo, and the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR)

Tibet as a travel destination is shrouded in an aura of mystery, and sometimes it can be difficult sifting fact from fiction or half-truth. One misconception that many would-be travellers to Tibet have is that the Tibetan Autonomous Region, or TAR, makes up the whole of Tibet. It doesn’t. Other parts of China are also Tibetan in culture, history, and landscape.

What do we mean by that? The TAR is a province in far-western China that borders Nepal, Bhutan, and parts of India. But ethnic and culturally Tibetan people live, and have lived for a long time, beyond the borders of the TAR. There are three main regions that have historically constituted Tibet: U-Tsang, Amdo, and Kham. These historic regions spill over into different modern-day geopolitical regions. Most of the TAR is U-Tsang, while the eastern parts also encompass parts of Kham. Kham also spills over into contemporary Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. Amdo falls mostly within Qinghai province, as well as slightly into Gansu.

Tibetans from these three broad regions are far from homogeneous, though. There are huge differences in culture and language between the different Tibetan peoples. Plus, what is commonly known as ‘Tibet’ now is, in many ways, gives a less ‘authentic’ insight into traditional Tibetan culture than other parts of Tibet, due to its political situation.

What this means for travelers is that there is far more of Tibet to see than the restricted and politically sensitive area of the TAR, and the cultures that dominate there. The sights and attractions of the TAR are unquestionably beautiful and fascinating, but there are many other things to see and do in those other provinces of China. Plus, in Amdo and Kham you don’t need the same kind of permit that you do for the TAR. You will need a visa for China, though.

Here’s a summary of some of the wonderful things you can experience in each of these three regions.

Amdo

The charm of Amdo lies in its vast empty plains, dotted with nomad's tents and yaks. It’s a large area, covering around 700,000 square kilometres (a little bigger than Ukraine), and covered in rolling grasslands dotted with herds of yaks and sheep, and punctuated by monastic villages. Amdowas (people from Amdo) were traditionally nomadic, moving their herds of livestock from pasture to pasture with the seasons, and living off the land.

Two highlights of Amdo are the monasteries at Labrang and Langmusi. Labrang Monastery is one of the six great monasteries of the Gelugpa (yellow hat) school of Tibetan Buddhism, so is an important pilgrimage site. The monastery is an enormous walled village, with wide paved roads for two-way traffic, electric streetlights, and a smattering of shops inside its walls. Founded in 1709, it was once the largest monastery in Amdo with 4,000 resident monks. Even though that number has dwindled to just 1,500 now, it’s still one of the largest in Tibet and wields considerable power in the region.

Langmusi is on the border of two provinces (Sichuan and Gansu), with a sizable monastery on each side of the border: Kirti Monastery on the Sichuan side, and Sertri Monastery on the Gansu side. But the highlight of Langmusi is the Namo Gorge, a narrow gorge through the cliffs. It’s so narrow that in parts you can touch both sides with outstretched arms. A shallow stream runs through the middle of it, as well as several impressive stalagmites and stalactites. Langmusi is also popular with intrepid travellers for its hiking and multi-day horse treks in the mountains.

And in case you thought that traveling through the grasslands of Tibet would mean roughing it in basic accommodation? It certainly doesn’t have to, with charming and authentic luxury tented accommodation that serves delicious food, not far from Labrang Monastery in Xiahe.

Kham

Kham offers a different kind of experience again, as jagged snow-capped peaks tower above the forested valleys. If you’re into off-the-beaten-path trekking and have experience in Nepal or other higher-altitude destinations, Kham’s Minya Konka Trek should be on your bucket list. Minya Konka, also known as Gongga Shan, is a mountain in eastern Tibet, within Sichuan Province. Discover hidden valleys and stunning alpine scenery in one of the few untouched areas of the world. Experience Tibetan Khampa culture (Khampas being the inhabitants of Kham), camp in high-altitude meadows with nomadic yak herders, and drink tea by the fire as the sun goes down. Get close to 6,000-metre peaks and soak in the unspoiled nature of the Tibetan Plateau on the trek of a lifetime in Tibet.

Khampas are also known as excellent horsemen, and travellers who don’t want to trek could check out the annual Yushu Horse Racing Festival in July/August instead. Horse racing festivals are a highlight of any trip to Kham, and are also popular in Amdo. The horse racing festival at Yushu is one of the biggest events of the year in eastern Tibet. Participants show off their talents on horseback, performing acrobatic tricks such as standing, firing arrows at targets, and sweeping up scarves from the ground while at gallop. There are also yak races and a full carnival of fun and games for families to enjoy. This is nomad Tibetan culture on display at its finest, as the empty grasslands fill with traditional yak hair tents as families pour into the area, wearing their best new clothes. There are many other festivals in the various regions of Tibet that you can attend throughout the year.

As well as treks and festivals, there are other great travel experiences to be enjoyed in Kham. Although it almost sounds too good to be real, the town of Shangri-La, with an ancient monastery makes a good base for a few days before ascending to Meile mountain. Half the fun is getting there through the grasslands, villages, and deep gorges of Sichuan and Yunnan Provinces. There are also some beautiful, boutique, Tibetan-style accommodation options in this area, if you prefer to travel in style and comfort. Plus, overland tours of Kham that start in Chengdu have the benefit of taking you to some of the highest places in the world—such as the Zheduo Mountain pass at 4200 metres—without you needing to trek there!

The TAR includes some of Tibetan Buddhism’s most important and holy sites—the Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple, and the Kumbum at Gyantse—so travellers interested in Tibetan Buddhism will naturally be drawn to this region. Plus, it’s where you can visit Mt. Kailash, Mt. Everest (Qomolangma in the local language), and beautiful high-altitude lakes like Lake Namtso.

You don’t even need to commit to a full tour of the TAR to enjoy some of the highlights of Lhasa, the capital. A few days in Lhasa can easily be added on to tours of other parts of Tibet, or even Nepal (there are direct flights daily between Kathmandu and Lhasa). If seeing the Potala Palace is a dream of yours, it’s really quite attainable if you’re travelling in the region. Do make sure to factor enough days into your itinerary for acclimatization though, as Lhasa is very high (3656 metres) and many tour operators won’t take you to the Potala Palace, which requires climbing a lot of steps, until your third or fourth day in town. With a few extra days up your sleeve, you can easily add Shigatse, Gyantse, and Tsedang to your itinerary, too.

While it is necessary to have a different kind of permit and visa for travel to the TAR than other parts of China, contrary to widespread opinion this is not difficult to get, or much of a hassle. All visitors to the TAR must travel with a guide on an approved itinerary, so getting the necessary permits is as easy as handing your details over to your travel company. The requirements do differ though depending on whether you’re coming from other parts of China or from Nepal.

Beyond The Clouds plans trips in all regions of Tibet: TAR, Amdo, and Kham. We can arrange permits for travel in Tibet, or help design your Tibetan journey so that permits are not required. Email us to find out more: info@beyondtheclouds.org.nz